Downtown Pine Bluff...the little town that was.

I only seen certain sides of Pine Bluff, Arkansas when I visit my sister and her family.  When Walter and I drove through town, the Downtown area caught my eye, so we made a point to go back after our afternoon exploring the Delta Rivers Nature Center.

This is the old 1924 Saenger Theatre - looks like it is 4 floors worth of stories and places to explore.  This can be said of all these old buildings, it's just such a shame none of them are in use.  It's such a gorgeous building.

 

Notice the murals painted on the walls of the building.  My previous post showed the larger murals that decorated the town buildings and here are even more.  There's one person in the photo who is not part of the mural.  Can you find him? 

 

 

Apparently Pine Bluff was a burgeoning railroad town (there is a railroad museum nearby we didn't have time to visit) and like so many places, it dried up as trains made way for automobiles and other industry replaced agricultural life. But Pine Bluff has always been a paper mill town and still is.

Murals painted on the buildings followed us all the way to the corner of the street.  Below is a great one:

 

Below is a great old art deco theatre where many a resident stood in line to see the latest picture show.  For whatever reason, I didn't take a better photo of the aviation mural on the side of the movie house.

 

It's times like these, that I wish very hard to be independently wealthy so I buy and revitalize these lovely old gems.

 

 

Ah, current movie prices.  If only!

 

Pine Bluff had a film festival at one time.  Would have been a great place to experience an indie flick.  (Who knew the word "today" used to be hyphenated?)

 

 

 There's the courthouse in the distance.  It's really a pretty Downtown.

 

Cool old drugstore sign.  It looked like it might still be open for business.

 

Pop's Barber Shop was still open for business.

 

What draws you to explore a town or city? 

Next time we head that way, we're going to visit the Railroad Museum.  It looked really cool!

The Vine That Ate the South

Yes, KUDZU.  

Kudzilla? 

I blogged about it on the Visit Mississippi travel blog in November and low and behold, it Kudzu ain't meeting its match in Hernando.

It's really true.  Goats.  Right outside of town on Highway 304 are the "Kudzu Removal Project" and the "Kudzu Control Demonstrations."  

We didn't see any goats out there grazing but I have before.  In one section, you could tell the goats made quick work of the Kudzu.

Daddy didn't stop, though.  He was on a mission to get us to The Blue & White in Tunica.

It's been a while since I've eaten at the Blue & White.  Over the past few months when I call my parents, Mama has mentioned that she and Daddy drove over to eat.  I kept seeing green...so when W & I were in town about a week ago, a special request was submitted for Sunday lunch at the Blue & White.  

Here's a look at the buffet - it's home cooking at its best.

Fried chicken, roast beef, chicken & dressing

Broccoli & cheese, yams, greens, fried green tomatoes, Brussel sprouts, lima beans and corn.

Yum, Yum.  This is my dad as he patiently waits to eat so I can take a picture.   

(Remember my trip to Ocean Springs?  

My friend Kathryn was not nearly as patient with me...but we were pretty hungry!)

I've had major cravings for fried chicken and yams.  And greens.  The rest is, as they say, gravy.

Their homemade yeast rolls are the best!

On our table was an advertisement for this double decker donut tower.  Sounds like a heart attack explosion on a plate to me (but would be worth it to try a bite).

And here's my sweet tea with the Blue & White story in the background.  The restaurant has been open since 1937.  As you can see in it was an old gas station that eventually just morphed into a restaurant.

A look at part of the restaurant.  It's so kitschy on the inside, which is what makes it such a great stop - and the food is delicious.  You can either get the buffet or order off the menu.  They are open for breakfast and lunch.  Either way, you'll be happy.  

Oh!  And I almost forgot:  Peach Cobbler for Dessert.  Phew.

The Blue & White Restaurant

1355 U.S. 61
Tunica, MS 38676
(662) 363-1371

Friday Fun

Don't know who this guy was but he's all about some pig...and Elvis..and B.B. King.  Let's just say, he's all about some Memphis.  Can't blame him!

There are so picture-worthy things I spot while behind the wheel but most of the time don't due to well, the obvious constraints - I'm sure you probably do this, too - and then sometimes I go ahead and do it anyway (you'll see what I mean next week). 

(Took this picture back in January or February)

A Rendezvous With Memphis 'Cue

GritsNSoul Confessional #1: After living in Memphis for a helluva long time, there are a few things that I never did because it just seemed too touristy to me:

• I have never entered the pearly gates of Graceland (but I've been to Graceland, Too several times)

• Didn't ever go to Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous because I was in love with Tops BBQ on Union and Colemans No. 43 in Hernando; and, also just because people made such a big deal about it - I can now say in hindsight - I  foolishly assumed it was all hype.

Let's hope there is room for forgiveness, like most transgressions.  So, Walter and I did some touristy things and I thought ok, ok, it's high time we try the Rendezvous.  

The Rendezvous is located in an alley between 2nd and 3rd Streets Downtown, right across from the Peabody.

 

It's a good thing we got there for an early dinner.  (Breakfast was so big, we didn't have lunch.  By the time we got there we were hungry!) 

You go in, go down the stairs to the left and stick your name on the list.

Then you go back upstairs and wait for your name to be called over the loud speaker.

There was only about a 10 minute wait and not enough time to explore the upstairs area (at that point anyway). 

We were escorted downstairs and into the depths of what we would soon realize is a little slice of heaven.  We got seated and look around at the walls and ceiling decorated with memorabilia, found objects and who knows what.  I got my camera out and was fiddling with it and the waiter walking past our table took it out of my hands because he thought I wanted him to take a picture.  I told him no, not right now, I was adjusting something and it's kind of complicated to work anyway. 


Then I realized...hey, this guy looks familiar.  Dean?  Dean Reese from high school (please people don't judge me)?!  Yep!  Wow!  It was great to see him after literally years.

He told us a little about the building, built in the 1860s and that he was the first white feller hired to work at the "Vous".   It was great to see him after all this time and he was so kind to send a little something special to our table to kick off the food frenzy or what I like to call the "Carnivore Carnivale."

It was the Ham, Cheese, and Salami plate, covered in dry rub tasty goodness.  Holy cow (or rather, pig). 

 Walter's meat, meat and biscuit "sandwich"

We decided to get a couple of things to share and ordered the pork ribs and brisket plate and the pulled pork plate.

Now, let me press pause and say that many people have waxed poetic about the barbecue here at the Vous - and for good reason.  I will not attempt to rewrite what has already been written.

The official Barbecue Wars (Texas VS Mississippi) continued full force, however the skirmish came to a complete stand-still at approximately 4:37 p.m. on 27 February 2010.  It is important that it be duly noted here.


Let it be said that no fewer than 20 expletives were uttered with awestruck reverence after the food arrived and began to be consumed.

I won't name names but whispered comments about the exceptional quality of Memphis barbecue and how perhaps prior judgment and trash talk may have been  inaccurate were sheepishly confessed.  Maybe I was just hearing things...

Needless to say there was quite a bit left over.

Leftovers are serious business.

So, then we went to Riverside and saw the beautiful sunset over the Mississippi River. 

It was still pretty cold out but we walked a little ways, heard the trolleys roll past on the rails and made our way back to the car.

Next stop:  Beale Street.

Discovered Ani DiFranco is playing in another month.  I saw her at the New Daisy several years ago and it was so much fun.  I love that venue and have seen some terrific shows there.

We mainly just wandered around people watching and listening to music.  Eventually we went into A. Schwab's and looked around.  It is the only original remaining Beale Street businesses.  Even the police precinct and museum is gone.  Mr. Lansky is now in the Peabody, so it's just the Dry Goods store (although they do sell cans of potted meat passed off for "road kill" on the 1st floor, which is where all the kitschy stuff is located)

Truth be told, I had been on the lower floors, but from what I can recall hadn't really explored upstairs.  It was fun to look through everything on the second floor, which was Schwab memorabilia - lots of fun!  It's still got a great vibe to it.  I think it's because I like old wood and metal.

Where can I find the Diabetic socks?  3rd Floor, right next to the panties and slips! 

They sell everything in all the old wooden bins.  Hats, aprons, souvenirs and real stuff.  I wonder how much business they do with all the real products?  And who buys the kitchen pots and pans?


Walter and I decided on Silky's because technically we wanted to see the Irish goats outside.  It was too cold and the patio was closed.  Oh well.  Our friend and fellow former Memphian, Jacksongirl, encouraged us to make some friends and get a diver.  Maybe some other time when we can crash at a stranger's apartment or ride the train home!

I ordered a Boll Weevil, "rum, banana and juices," which was a really girly drink considering the name.  If I were to make a Boll Weevil, it'd either be brown or green.  (That has officially challenged me to make up a BW drink of my own to be unveiled at the 3rd annual Watermelon Party this summer.)


GritsNSoul Confessional #2:  I swear to Pete if I never hear the song "Walking In Memphis" again the rest of my life, I'll live out my days a happy, carefree person. 

I have a special antipathy for that song that I cannot begin to explain. I don't know if it's because it's so damn cheesy or it's just so cliche. Both, really, and also a gut feeling. An intuition. Good for him that he made millions off of it, now please go away. Seriously.

We heard that song by the chanteuse "Barbra Blue" after ordering our 2nd drink at Silky's.  You can tell so much about an artist by the cover songs they choose...

We immediately asked for the check. The ruse was to pay the woman 5 bucks to stop the song (how's that for filling the tip jar) but I was curious if 100 bucks would get her off the stage for the night. 

All in all, we had a fantastic time and it was a great weekend in the Blues City, my former hometown.  

Serious Breakfast.

Walter (QB) has been to Memphis but I was able to take him around my old stomping grounds. My Mom was with us and we had lunch at Huey's (a side of onion rings were a must, of course) then walked across the street to Shangri-La Record store and found quite a few goodies. Mmmhmm!  

Then we drove around town, showed him a few sites.  I also forgot my camera that day. Whoops.

Saturday, we began with an early morning because it was imperative Walter experience the revelation that is Brother Junipers College Inn. The most incredible breakfast experience in town.  I've been eating there ever since I began college at the University of Memphis - me and everyone else in town - and I don't remember how the love affair began.  Seems to me a class was canceled and a classmate suggested breakfast there...does it really even matter?

From what I understand, it is owned by a Greek Orthodox family.  They make their own baked goods (they began an apprenticeship program for bakers, too) and have some of the best. omelets. ever.  And potato dishes.  And eggs served with cream cheese, dill and salmon.  

Everything I've tried is good which I can't say that about a lot of restaurants.  Their menu is here. I dare you!

This is one of the most popular breakfast spots in town, i.e. we got there at straight up 9 a.m. and had about a 30 minute wait.  The restaurant used to only be 2 rooms with a coffee bar and the line would be out the door by 9 or 10 am.  They have since expanded into what used to be the shop next door, closing up the old entrance and making it a window.  The new expanded space is brightly colored with local art hanging on the walls, a nice coffee bar with bar stools, a long community table in back of that, seats for waiting patrons and the cash register by the door.  The additional space was something they needed and good for people watching.  

Walter and I got a spot at the bar and received two cups of hot, strong coffee.  Hit the spot!  At one point I looked up and spotted filmmaker and Memphis champion, Craig Brewer, having lunch with his son and some friends.  I had to tell him that I was having a quiet breakfast and although I understand gushing over me and all, please don't make a scene.


What?  Oh.  And the Scooby Doo ending is...

My undercover skills came in handy while I "curiously fiddled" with my camera and discretely got a shot.  (I am so not subtle in real life, but this time it went my way)  He's the guy in the hat. 

At last, we got a table at the old coffee bar and combed the menu to see what we were going to devour!

 Does it make you think of the Canadian show on Nickelodeon, too?

I decided to go with the special, French toast with strawberry crème fraîche.   Pretty straight forward and delicious!  No syrup needed here, thanks anyway.  It came with a side of garlic cheese grits (gorjus, take note) and bacon.  Speaks for itself - and keep the Community coffee comin'.

Walter got "Mom's Lil Special," an open-face omelet with mushrooms, spinach, fresh smoked salmon, roasted red peppers and some home fries located underneath the mound of divine goodness.  Man, that was good.  We were supposed to share (umm...halvsies!) but you can guess what did and did not occur.  Funny how when the food actually arrives and all bets are off.

After we'd gotten our fill, talked to our coffee bar neighbors a little and scraped our plates, it was time to get some fresh air.


Walter wanted to see the Shell, so we went to Audubon Park and walked off - let's be realistic - only about 1/32 of our breakfast.  Brrr!  It was cold but sunny outside and the lap around the lake was nice.

 

We noticed a very interesting, huge tree. 

We headed back to Hernando for a little while and later we went Downtown for some serious barbecue.