The End Is Near

I am under a tight deadline for the Culinary Trail.  

Next Friday is the day.  This is the capital F "finish."  The last region of the entire state.  What a thought! 

So it's head down in my rabbit hole:  reading, scribbling notes and constructing the final region.   

It makes me a little sad because this part is coming to a close; yet, I am looking forward to all the promotion and enjoying the celebration of the completed project.  There are some exciting events in the works.  Tourism is so much fun, especially when your state is Mississippi!

I have so many stories to share but they will just have to wait for right now.

This Friday, I'm going to go exploring the area for the day (more barbecue and other pig products on the menu) and will report back with a-plenty, there's no doubt about that.

GritsNSoul Confessionals Continue...

It's been great because a friend of mine works Downtown and just recently we've realized that.  We've been so glad to have each other as an available lunch buddy!  So, on a cold, windy day like we had earlier this week, Southern comfort food was in order.

Maybe because it's spring and it is time to figuratively shed my skin.  Maybe because when living in denial one can never truly move forward. 

GritsNSoul Confessional of the Day: 

I ate lunch at Two Sisters Kitchen for the first time on Tuesday.  (I know, I know!)

(exterior pictures taken Summer '09 when it was sunny and green)

So now that it's off my chest, the next admission is that it was an affair to remember. 

Two Sisters is located in a large, old two-story former residence on Congress Street next door to the Welty Commons (aka the site where of the home where author Eudora Welty was born, turned cool art/music/community space complete with coffee shop).

It's got an almost kitschy feel to it but not surprisingly, very homey.  (I have a soft spot for old houses as it is.) When you enter through the front porch door, especially on a chilly day like we did, greeted with the site of a buffet, well, that's comfort food at its peak.  

Honestly, it's hard to remember what all was there but you can see from my plate below the smattering of everything I got.  What's fun is there is seating upstairs and downstairs.  You grab a plate, fill 'er up and find your table.  Ours was "upstairs, second door to the right."  It was a little confusing because I didn't want to sit in the wrong place.  I found the room and even the lady upstairs was a little confused where we should set up camp for lunch.  They have a speaker system to talk back and forth with, thank goodness.  Everything got cleared up, I sat down and ordered my sweet tea, then went downstairs and readied my plate like so:

Now about that fried chicken:  I spoke to owner Diane Alford several months ago when I stopped by to take photos for Culinary Trail-related things.  She told me that Cat Cora had nominated her as the best fried chicken she ever had for the Food Network Show "Best Thing I Ever Ate."  Don't know what happened with that, but nevertheless, I can second that emotion.

The mac and cheese was a little on the dry side but the crispy fried okra made me very happy!  And the black eyed peas, turnip greens and yams hit the spot.  We had a fun lunch.

And the sweet tea? 

It got a 3 to 4...overall pretty good but not as good as Catfish Country.

p.s. 
thank you, Neola, for the use of your camera!!

p.p.s. 
Neola says they ain't no chicken like Mr. D's fried chicken at the Old Country Store in Lorman.  
I've heard about this place a few times before and it warrants a road trip.  Very. Soon. 

p.p.p.s.  
Any place that has fabulous fried chicken has probably got a level 4 or 5 sweet tea.
I'm absolutely sure of it.

A Rendezvous With Memphis 'Cue

GritsNSoul Confessional #1: After living in Memphis for a helluva long time, there are a few things that I never did because it just seemed too touristy to me:

• I have never entered the pearly gates of Graceland (but I've been to Graceland, Too several times)

• Didn't ever go to Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous because I was in love with Tops BBQ on Union and Colemans No. 43 in Hernando; and, also just because people made such a big deal about it - I can now say in hindsight - I  foolishly assumed it was all hype.

Let's hope there is room for forgiveness, like most transgressions.  So, Walter and I did some touristy things and I thought ok, ok, it's high time we try the Rendezvous.  

The Rendezvous is located in an alley between 2nd and 3rd Streets Downtown, right across from the Peabody.

 

It's a good thing we got there for an early dinner.  (Breakfast was so big, we didn't have lunch.  By the time we got there we were hungry!) 

You go in, go down the stairs to the left and stick your name on the list.

Then you go back upstairs and wait for your name to be called over the loud speaker.

There was only about a 10 minute wait and not enough time to explore the upstairs area (at that point anyway). 

We were escorted downstairs and into the depths of what we would soon realize is a little slice of heaven.  We got seated and look around at the walls and ceiling decorated with memorabilia, found objects and who knows what.  I got my camera out and was fiddling with it and the waiter walking past our table took it out of my hands because he thought I wanted him to take a picture.  I told him no, not right now, I was adjusting something and it's kind of complicated to work anyway. 


Then I realized...hey, this guy looks familiar.  Dean?  Dean Reese from high school (please people don't judge me)?!  Yep!  Wow!  It was great to see him after literally years.

He told us a little about the building, built in the 1860s and that he was the first white feller hired to work at the "Vous".   It was great to see him after all this time and he was so kind to send a little something special to our table to kick off the food frenzy or what I like to call the "Carnivore Carnivale."

It was the Ham, Cheese, and Salami plate, covered in dry rub tasty goodness.  Holy cow (or rather, pig). 

 Walter's meat, meat and biscuit "sandwich"

We decided to get a couple of things to share and ordered the pork ribs and brisket plate and the pulled pork plate.

Now, let me press pause and say that many people have waxed poetic about the barbecue here at the Vous - and for good reason.  I will not attempt to rewrite what has already been written.

The official Barbecue Wars (Texas VS Mississippi) continued full force, however the skirmish came to a complete stand-still at approximately 4:37 p.m. on 27 February 2010.  It is important that it be duly noted here.


Let it be said that no fewer than 20 expletives were uttered with awestruck reverence after the food arrived and began to be consumed.

I won't name names but whispered comments about the exceptional quality of Memphis barbecue and how perhaps prior judgment and trash talk may have been  inaccurate were sheepishly confessed.  Maybe I was just hearing things...

Needless to say there was quite a bit left over.

Leftovers are serious business.

So, then we went to Riverside and saw the beautiful sunset over the Mississippi River. 

It was still pretty cold out but we walked a little ways, heard the trolleys roll past on the rails and made our way back to the car.

Next stop:  Beale Street.

Discovered Ani DiFranco is playing in another month.  I saw her at the New Daisy several years ago and it was so much fun.  I love that venue and have seen some terrific shows there.

We mainly just wandered around people watching and listening to music.  Eventually we went into A. Schwab's and looked around.  It is the only original remaining Beale Street businesses.  Even the police precinct and museum is gone.  Mr. Lansky is now in the Peabody, so it's just the Dry Goods store (although they do sell cans of potted meat passed off for "road kill" on the 1st floor, which is where all the kitschy stuff is located)

Truth be told, I had been on the lower floors, but from what I can recall hadn't really explored upstairs.  It was fun to look through everything on the second floor, which was Schwab memorabilia - lots of fun!  It's still got a great vibe to it.  I think it's because I like old wood and metal.

Where can I find the Diabetic socks?  3rd Floor, right next to the panties and slips! 

They sell everything in all the old wooden bins.  Hats, aprons, souvenirs and real stuff.  I wonder how much business they do with all the real products?  And who buys the kitchen pots and pans?


Walter and I decided on Silky's because technically we wanted to see the Irish goats outside.  It was too cold and the patio was closed.  Oh well.  Our friend and fellow former Memphian, Jacksongirl, encouraged us to make some friends and get a diver.  Maybe some other time when we can crash at a stranger's apartment or ride the train home!

I ordered a Boll Weevil, "rum, banana and juices," which was a really girly drink considering the name.  If I were to make a Boll Weevil, it'd either be brown or green.  (That has officially challenged me to make up a BW drink of my own to be unveiled at the 3rd annual Watermelon Party this summer.)


GritsNSoul Confessional #2:  I swear to Pete if I never hear the song "Walking In Memphis" again the rest of my life, I'll live out my days a happy, carefree person. 

I have a special antipathy for that song that I cannot begin to explain. I don't know if it's because it's so damn cheesy or it's just so cliche. Both, really, and also a gut feeling. An intuition. Good for him that he made millions off of it, now please go away. Seriously.

We heard that song by the chanteuse "Barbra Blue" after ordering our 2nd drink at Silky's.  You can tell so much about an artist by the cover songs they choose...

We immediately asked for the check. The ruse was to pay the woman 5 bucks to stop the song (how's that for filling the tip jar) but I was curious if 100 bucks would get her off the stage for the night. 

All in all, we had a fantastic time and it was a great weekend in the Blues City, my former hometown.  

Special Bulletin!

Mississippi is really the only place where when you order tea, iced tea, it will arrive at the table in its most precious form (at least in these parts):  Sweet.  From what I've gathered, the phenomenon occurs the majority of time, only in Mississippi.  We have an enormous sweet tooth here and it's not just a summertime drink - it's an all-the-time, every occasion sort of beverage.  

For me personally, most places usually make their tea a little too sweet so I usually ask for 1/2 (sweet) and 1/2 (unsweet) with lemon.  The type of tea that I enjoy most is  strong - I want to taste it.  Not a fan of watery tea. And I like a subtle sweetness. Top it off with a lemon and it's a go.

For the Culinary Trail project, I put together a food glossary explaining the love affair Mississippians have for certain food items like hot tamales, fried pickles and cheese straws.  There is also an explanation about running across "greens" on a menu and what that means as well as the difference between home cooking and soul food. 

Sweet tea is on the list, too.

Last week my publisher at Portico asked me where to find the best sweet tea.  I was officially stumped. 

And, in my embarrassment, I may have changed the subject quickly at that point. 

Now, I have a mission.  

My mission is to find the best sweet tea in the state. 

Without further ado, I would like to unveil my creation: 

The "Sweet Tea-O-Meter™"

(photo taken from Mr. Wonderful's)

It's a handy rating system to judge and appreciate sweet tea at the restaurants you visit. 

Because it's important. 

Because we need to know.

Because it's your civic duty.

With the Sweet Tea-O-Meter™ there's nothing to buy, here, folks. It's a 1 to 5 rating system that is completely subjective to your tastebuds and fun to put into practice during your mealtime extravaganza. 

My patented rating system is as follows:

1 - You call this sweet?

(you should be ashamed)

2 - This'll Pass

(but I'm still disappointed in you)

3 - Just Right!

4 - Cuts Like a Knife

(ouch)

5 - Jaw Cringing...

(diabetic coma)

For sweet tea heads, whose lives are lived according to the merits of sweet tea, it is imparative to share your rating with those who appreciate your discoveries.

Ok, here's what I've got so far:

Huey's Midtown (Memphis - and Memphis counts, not because of personal bias but  because it's right on the line and they maintain a lot of our food traditions): 4-5

My Parent's House (Hernando):  3

Rendezvous (Memphis):  This was tricky.  I would have given it a 4 or 5 but as the meal wore on and all the flavors competed for attention, it went down to a 3. 

Catfish Country (Hernando):  3!!!!!  It was perfect.  The tea was strong and the sweet was oh so subtle.  Ahhhh!

What about YOU? 

Where was the best sweet tea you've ever had? 

Serious Breakfast.

Walter (QB) has been to Memphis but I was able to take him around my old stomping grounds. My Mom was with us and we had lunch at Huey's (a side of onion rings were a must, of course) then walked across the street to Shangri-La Record store and found quite a few goodies. Mmmhmm!  

Then we drove around town, showed him a few sites.  I also forgot my camera that day. Whoops.

Saturday, we began with an early morning because it was imperative Walter experience the revelation that is Brother Junipers College Inn. The most incredible breakfast experience in town.  I've been eating there ever since I began college at the University of Memphis - me and everyone else in town - and I don't remember how the love affair began.  Seems to me a class was canceled and a classmate suggested breakfast there...does it really even matter?

From what I understand, it is owned by a Greek Orthodox family.  They make their own baked goods (they began an apprenticeship program for bakers, too) and have some of the best. omelets. ever.  And potato dishes.  And eggs served with cream cheese, dill and salmon.  

Everything I've tried is good which I can't say that about a lot of restaurants.  Their menu is here. I dare you!

This is one of the most popular breakfast spots in town, i.e. we got there at straight up 9 a.m. and had about a 30 minute wait.  The restaurant used to only be 2 rooms with a coffee bar and the line would be out the door by 9 or 10 am.  They have since expanded into what used to be the shop next door, closing up the old entrance and making it a window.  The new expanded space is brightly colored with local art hanging on the walls, a nice coffee bar with bar stools, a long community table in back of that, seats for waiting patrons and the cash register by the door.  The additional space was something they needed and good for people watching.  

Walter and I got a spot at the bar and received two cups of hot, strong coffee.  Hit the spot!  At one point I looked up and spotted filmmaker and Memphis champion, Craig Brewer, having lunch with his son and some friends.  I had to tell him that I was having a quiet breakfast and although I understand gushing over me and all, please don't make a scene.


What?  Oh.  And the Scooby Doo ending is...

My undercover skills came in handy while I "curiously fiddled" with my camera and discretely got a shot.  (I am so not subtle in real life, but this time it went my way)  He's the guy in the hat. 

At last, we got a table at the old coffee bar and combed the menu to see what we were going to devour!

 Does it make you think of the Canadian show on Nickelodeon, too?

I decided to go with the special, French toast with strawberry crème fraîche.   Pretty straight forward and delicious!  No syrup needed here, thanks anyway.  It came with a side of garlic cheese grits (gorjus, take note) and bacon.  Speaks for itself - and keep the Community coffee comin'.

Walter got "Mom's Lil Special," an open-face omelet with mushrooms, spinach, fresh smoked salmon, roasted red peppers and some home fries located underneath the mound of divine goodness.  Man, that was good.  We were supposed to share (umm...halvsies!) but you can guess what did and did not occur.  Funny how when the food actually arrives and all bets are off.

After we'd gotten our fill, talked to our coffee bar neighbors a little and scraped our plates, it was time to get some fresh air.


Walter wanted to see the Shell, so we went to Audubon Park and walked off - let's be realistic - only about 1/32 of our breakfast.  Brrr!  It was cold but sunny outside and the lap around the lake was nice.

 

We noticed a very interesting, huge tree. 

We headed back to Hernando for a little while and later we went Downtown for some serious barbecue.