My Funkadelic Soul Playlist

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Trail Mix

(taken from the Mississippi Delta Tamale Trail website...Mmmmm!)

I'm learning that Mississippi is chock full of Trails. We have a Blues trail, Culinary Trail, Literary Trail - the list goes on. The one I'm currently working on is the Culinary Trail, which breaks down each region of the state: The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, The Capital Region and The Coast. Each area, each town has great stops and good eats. I've been joking that every afternoon my stomach begins craving hot tamales and fried catfish.

Actually, I'm not joking - I really do get a little hungry.

The Southern Foodways Alliance is incredible. In their own words:

The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South.

We stage symposia on food culture, produce documentary films, publish compendiums of great writing, and—perhaps most importantly—preserve, promote, and chronicle our region’s culinary standard bearers. We’re talking white tablecloth chefs and fried chicken cooks, barbecue pitmasters and peanut farmers.The SFA is a member-supported organization of more than 800 people.

Chefs and academics, writers and eaters: all are active participants. Though we are a lean and efficient organization, our work has great impact. In the Atlantic Monthly, Corby Kummer dubbed the SFA “this country’s most intellectually engaged food society.”

They publish cookbooks, put out documentary films and record oral histories.

Speaking of oral histories, did you know that the University of Southern Mississippi has an Oral History Program that records and documents stories about Mississippi from people of all walks of life? They just celebrated their 10 year anniversary in February.

Last week I was jealous because everyone in the Tourism office was gone to New York City to attend the Big Apple Barbeque Block Party, the Mississippi in the Park Picnic and all the other festivities happening. The only reason my other supervisor was still in the office is because she is 9 months pregnant! I'm glad she was there for company, though!

So, back to food: I can't wait to toodle around on the Hot Tamale Trail. (Yes, I used the word "toodle")

It's fascinating that there's more than one way to wrap a hot tamale. I've only ever seen them wrapped in corn husks; but there's also parchment paper and newspaper.

For recipes, information on the trail (and other food trails) and to watch videos click right here.

Memorial Day in the Quarter

Once my camera arrived, I purchased a lovely 1960s tweed train case from fruitsaladvintage on Etsy, took out the insides of my camera box (until I can get the thing fitted with foam) and voila! I have a camera case. It was great for travel, heavily protected and easy access to the goods.

Its first real trip was to New Orleans over Labor Day weekend. It was a highly anticipated trip for a few reasons: #1 the last time I was in New Orleans was during a trip with my Mom and sister. I was 13. #2 tagging along was my sidekick in the form of my new camera. #3 it was a special romantic weekend with QB...I had a sneaking suspicion that I might get a little "token of affection."

[Especially since it slipped out one night a few weeks before. ~ hee hee ~ We had been talking about marriage and all of a sudden over chips and a margarita buzz, we both got teary eyed and he was talking more seriously than he ever had. Before I knew it, we were engaged (in our favorite Mexican restaurant, no less)!]

We had such a great time in New Orleans and ate a lot of yummy food. I was on the mend from a bout of strep throat, so my stomach wasn't as tolerant of fried food and hot sauce as usual - very unfortunate! (those fried oysters were so totally worth it, though)

The thing I noticed about the area itself is that after driving through the Pines and flat land of Southern Mississippi the landscape begins to change and you are in a totally different world. It's interesting to me how that happens so quickly. Both sides of the interstate are surrounded by bayous, swamps and wetland plant and wildlife. Then the city of New Orleans is very tropical with Palm trees on Canal Street, much more humid and very European in style and atmosphere, naturally with all the Spanish and French influences.

It's a perfect getaway that isn't very far and especially helpful if you're on a budget. (Taking the train is a good option, too, for the budget conscious)

The sky was fairly dark with some ominous-looking clouds but the rain passed over the city.After we checked in to our hotel on Canal Street, we walked on the outskirts of the French Quarter for a late lunch. My camera was in tow around my neck and I couldn't help but want to take pictures of everything!!

How very European, no?

Lunch was at Napolean House on Chartres Street. A lovely restaurant, so full of character. I'm absolutely in love with all the buildings with the interior courtyards.

Below taken by QB...mine turned out dark.

For an appetizer we tried the charcuterie plate that came with a few different types of meats, mustard, foie gras and hearty french bread. We washed it down with a Pimm's cup.

The pictures below taken with his camera, I believe.

This one is mine.

(QB kept laughing at me because I constantly forgot to take my lens cap off. Throw a girl a bone!)

Then the main course arrived at the table. A Muffaletta. It was too good for words. My old boss at Malaco, Wolf, has raved about the Muffaletta's at Central Grocery for as long as I was there (4 yrs) - the original home of the Muffaletta. Next time, I want to try the original, although Napolean House is considered first-rate in its own right. After lunch, we wandered around the French Quarter. The shot below is of some buildings in the Quarter. Every time QB and I go to a city, we always imagine living there for a while and wonder how much it would cost to rent a cool apartment.

After seeing a really fun street show, we took in the view of the Mississippi River. QB was right when it's a strange feeling to see that the River is higher than the city itself. We walked over the cable car tracks and looked out at the River for a bit.

Of course, we had to visit Cafe Du Monde, a New Orleans institution and no-brainer. It's a veritable free for all dining experience - one that's memorable and full of character. The air is filled with the smell of fried dough and coffee. The tables and floor are covered with powdered sugar. It's a little bit of heaven.

It took us a few minutes to spot an empty table and once we did, made a beeline for it and sat ourselves down. I realized the menu was on the side of the diner-style napkin tins. A few minutes later a waiter came by and took our order. QB told me that he refused to share his beignets and that I had to get my own order.

So I did.

It was really warm and humid, so I got an frozen cafe au lait and was it good! Strong coffee is always a plus in my book so I was glad to find that it wasn't one of those wimpy frozen coffee concoctions. It was strong and delicious and hit the spot. My stomach could only handle one and a half beignets but I soaked up the experience, people watching and listening to the street musicians performing for the crowd. I never got tired of hearing bands play "When the Saints Go Marching In." It might get old if you lived there and heard it constantly but it was fun to hear it.

After wandering around in the Quarter for another few hours, up and down Bourbon Street and beyond, we went back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. QB made reservations for us at the Court of Two Sisters but rescheduled for Sunday night in favor of Jacques-Imos, since it wasn't going to be open on Sunday.

Jacques-Imo's is Uptown on Oak Street. Don't be deterred by all the road work going on there right now. Park and walk to it. QB told grand tales of eating there in April for his conference, but unfortunately it was closed. There was a sign on the door that said the employees needed a break. Can't blame them for that, but our taste buds were sorely disappointed - especially when I'd heard about the fabulous bouillabasse. Instead, we drove back to the Quarter and looked for a restaurant where we could get our seafood fix. By this time it was around 9 p.m.

We decided on the Palm Court Jazz Cafe on Decatur Street, especially since there was a Dixieland Jazz band playing. What fun! Here is where I admit my fried food overload episode of the trip. Everything sounded so good, especially after being on a diet of Saltine crackers and Gatorade.

So began my overload.

I ordered the fried crawfish tails appetizer and QB got a cup of gumbo. They have so many wonderful options on the menu it was difficult to chose but I finally decided to get the fried oysters. QB got Crawfish Nantua. Mine was delicious and the oysters came with steamed veggies and this incredible pesto type butter. Divine. QB's was really tasty.

It all was.

So continued my overload.

The Jazz band was so much fun, we watched a couple dance their hearts out and we soaked up the music.

We stopped ourselves at dessert...there was really no way anything else would fit in our stomachs.

I'll skip the part where I woke up at 5 a.m. thinking I was going to lose my supper.

The next day, Sunday, we went to Cafe Beignet and met a friend for breakfast. QB had a buttery Belgian Waffle and fruit and I had some kind of Hashbrowns delight that was a combination of sausage, home fries, green peppers and onions...against my better judgement, I added a little hot sauce. Luckily, my stomach agreed with me. We shared an eclair just for the heck of it. The food was very good. The only thing about the place was the humidity. They kept the doors open and it stayed really warm inside.

There were some other friends nearby having brunch at the House of Blues. Part of me wished we'd gone there just because it is supposed to be really good, though a bit pricey ($40/each so maybe it's a good thing we didn't go).

After breakfast, we met our friends at the New Orleans Museum of Art.

It is an impressive museum - absolutely gorgeous - with three floors worth of galleries and displays. The girls and guys split up and my friend and I explored the modern art, a few other galleries of pottery and glass work, then wandered around in the sculpture garden.

We were amazed at all the lizards in the trees, bushes and scurrying across the sidewalk. (We found out later they are actually skinks.) There is a beautiful lagoon with bridges and flowers in the garden, along with some interesting modern art sculpture. My friend and I picked up the pace because we thought it was about to rain! (It didn't)

Below is a very cool piece outside the Museum store.

It was early and we were hungry but had dinner reservations a good bit later. So, we stopped by a sushi restaurant - Sekisui - and got a few appetizers. It was SO GOOD! It was fun to try a few different things other than sushi rolls. We wholeheartedly recommend the Gyoza and the Eel Sundae (eel, avacado and crushed macadamia nuts with balsamic vinegar sauce - I swear it had some crab in there, too). It was a perfect afternoon snack to hold us over until dinner. Cheap and delicious!

QB and I went back to the hotel, rested a bit and then got ready for our dinner reservations at The Court of Two Sisters.

We'd initially asked for Courtyard seating, though since rain kept threatening the sunny weather, they closed it off. They gave us a lovely table by the window looking out onto the Courtyard. It was a beautiful, airy interior.

After looking through the menu comprehensively, both of us decided to order the Prix Fixe menu. It had most of the food items we wanted to try.

Turtle Soup au Sherry started us out. It was delicious. This was the first time I'd had real turtle - honestly, I always thought turtle soup was a euphamism for something else. The sherry gave the soup a strong, almost tart flavor. Yum.

Next we had a salad, where I got the House salad and QB decided to get the Caesar salad, prepared tableside. The waiter prepared the dressing there in front of us - with egg, anchovy, oil and spices. It was incredible. I'd never had it before and wished I'd gotten the Caesar instead, although my salad was nothing to sniff at.

For the entree, I had Veal Oscar (baby white veal cutlets sauteed and covered with lump crabmeat, tasso hollandaise and fresh asparagus spears. Need I say more?!)

The real fun of a dinner like this is being able to share, needless to say! You get the best of both worlds during a sit-down. QB ordered Char-broiled Tenderloin of Beef, which came covered in marchand de vin and bearnaise sauces and vegetables.

The dinner was unbelievable. Decadent and rich; and, we haven't even touched on dessert yet.

After being teased the entire dinner by watching the waiters prepare bananas foster at everyone else's table, it was my turn! Buttery, brown sugary banana goodness over vanilla ice cream. That alone was enough to set me straight for the night. By this point, I could barely eat half of it. At one point, I felt a straw was necessary because it had all melted into a conglomeration of buttery yumminess. QB had bourbon pecan pie which he said was very good. I would never know since my eyes were transfixed on my own bowl.

Over dessert, it was then we began talking and QB surprised me with a beautiful engagement ring! I did more than get a little teary! It was so touching and special and sweet. He's the dearest. Ever. I mean it. Ever.

We dragged ourselves back home via taxi (I wore a pair of high heels that weren't condusive for walking long distances...how do other women do it?), we rested our stomachs and our bodies and talked into the night...and slept in!

Monday, it finally did rain. We checked ourselves out of the hotel and made our way back to the Quarter to explore one last time. We brought out the umbrellas and decided to go back to Cafe du Monde for a repeat performance of a good show (that would be the beignets and powdered sugar show!)

The street musicians were performing again, there were a different set of people in the cafe and it was so much fun to watch everyone (probably like they were watching us).

The ring looks so natural in a habitat of powdered sugar goodness.

We wandered around the Quarter a little more and by that time, it was time for lunch. Felix's - apparently where Ellen Degeneres used to shuck oysters and tell the patrons jokes.

The lunch was alright but not great. My stomach was reaching its limit of rich food as it was. They were out of chargrilled oysters (?!?) and so I set my sights on trying the blackened alligator. It was pretty good, kind of gamey in taste and very chewy. Overall, I liked it. It didn't taste like chicken...just like, well, alligator, I guess.

QB got jambalaya and I got red beans and rice. Everything could have used more seasoning honestly, but it's probably best for my stomach that it wasn't. A friend met up with us after lunch and so we wandered to Pirates Alley, got a drink and did some catching up.

We got in the car and headed back to Mississippi, out of that special world of New Orleans. We had such a great time exploring the city, one of our favorite things to do. The air was permeated with smells of fried dough and powdered sugar, chicory, spices and hot sauce. What a special place.